My So Called Crafty Life

Tag Archives: Crafts

DIY Fall Twig Wreath

06-IMG_1087 07-IMG_1084 05-IMG_1090 04-IMG_1091Hey everyone! October is here and I am so excited! Not only do my hubby and I both have birthdays, there is also Halloween and the beginnings of sweater weather in the south! I needed a new fall wreath for my door and I have been wanting to make a twig wreath for a while since seeing all those beautiful driftwood wreaths floating around Pinterest. I gathered a bunch of twigs in various sizes from my moms yard and picked up some burlap flower and leaf picks at JoAnns. Here is my how-to:

What You Need:

*MDF wood wreath form


*Hot Glue


*Floral Stems for decoration

*Burlap ribbon for hanging


10-DSC_493111-DSC_4932The first thing you need to do is gather your twigs. Get them in varying widths. You will need to decide the basic length you wish to snip them by holding one up to your wreath and marking it then snip it. Snip or break your twigs in varying lengths using the first twig as a guide. For your thicker twigs, clamping the twig in a heavy clamp to a table or something sturdy will help you break it.

12-DSC_4933 13-DSC_4934Once you have all your twigs snapped you are ready to start glueing them. Glue a twig to your wreath form with the bottom of the twig a little above the inner circle edge of your from. Glue your next twig next to the first, trying to line it up the bottom at the inner circle in line with the first twig.Glue your twigs like that all the way around your wreath. Once the wreath has been filled around, fill in gappy areas with some thinner twigs.

14-DSC_4935 09-DSC_4936Now clip the wires off of your floral picks. Arrange the picks and embellishments as you like them, then glue them all down with your hot glue. To finish off add your ribbon by tying a long loop and bow around the top of your wreath.

08-IMG_1083 03-IMG_1092 02-IMG_1095 01-IMG_1096I really like the way my wreath turned out! I think it is really cute and neutral so it could work up until the holidays. I love the burlap accents, but you can really make it your own just by the floral picks and embellishments you use. It was really pretty simple to make and took me about an hour or two from start to finish. I hope you all will give it a try some time! I think you’ll love it too! I’ll be back soon with more diy fun. Until then…

Happy Crafting!

DIY Soft and Cozy Pet Sling

03-DSC_4732 02-DSC_4738Hi guys! As many of you who follow my blog know, my sister and I got new puppies this summer! We picked out two italian greyhound puppies, Annie and JoJo. Hannah has the JoJo, and I have Annie, his sister. Italian greyhounds are widely known as velcro dogs since they love to be as close to you as possible all day long. Little Jo wants to be held all day and will follow you around and cry until you pick him up. Since he’s such a clingy little fella, I made Hannah a puppy sling for him to snuggle down in. He’s cozy and close to her, and she’s happy and hands free. I thought I would share how I made her sling in case any of you guys have a pup or kitty you’d like to tote around.

Here’s What You Need:

*Flannel or Quilting Weight Fabric for Outside

*Fleece or Minky for Lining

*Sewing Machine and Thread

*Straight Pins

*Ruler and Marking Pen


06-DSC_4688The first thing you need to do is cut your pieces. Measure around where you will wear the sling around your body and add a few inches to that and then another inch for seam allowance. I made Hannah’s to be 60″ long by 8″ wide. So cut one long piece to be 61″x9″. If your fabric isn’t wide or long enough you can piece it together, just make sure you add seam allowance. For example, my 61″9″ can be made into two pieces that were 31″x9″. You will also need to cut a half circle. Determine the depth you want the pouch to be plus the width. Mark both on a piece of paper. Fold your paper in half width wise and then draw in the curve from the side to the bottom. You will need two half circles of your fabric. Cut one long strip and two half circles of your outer fabric and one long strip and two half circles from your lining snuggle fabric.

07-DSC_4689Mark the center of both your half circles and your long strip. Beginning at the center, pin one half circle to the long strip on one side, right sides together. Pin the other side in the same manner. Do the same for your flannel and your lining fabrics.

08-DSC_4690Stitch the sides to the strip with a half inch seam allowance, from the top side of one end of the semi circle, around the bottom to the other side. You should now have two open pouches. One is the flannel and one is the snuggle fabric.

09-DSC_4691 10-DSC_4692Now open out the snuggle fabric pouch and lay it in the flannel pouch so that right sides are touching. Pin together.

11-DSC_4693 12-DSC_4695 13-DSC_4696 14-DSC_4697 15-DSC_4698Now you are ready to stitch. Start on one side of one end. Stitch down that side, when you get to the half circle pivot your fabric with the needle down. Then stitch across the top of the half circle, then pivot again and stitch up the side of the other strap. Pivot and stitch across the end of the strap, then back down the other side, across the other half circle, then back up the other side. Leave the end you started on open at the top.

16-DSC_4699 17-DSC_4700 18-DSC_4702 19-DSC_4704 Clip your curves and clip corners. Now reach in the open end and pull the other end through turning the pouch right side out. One end will be closed and one side will be open but your pouch will be formed. As you can see I had some helpers.

05-DSC_4706Now you need to connect your strap to finish off your pouch. Turn the raw edges in towards the inside. Then lay the closed end over the top of the one you just turned under overlapping them by about a half inch or so. Pin. Stitch across the end close to the edge. Then turn over and stitch across the other end close to the edge. Clip your threads and you are finished.

04-DSC_4728 01-DSC_4743I think it turned out pretty cute! We actually found the flannel fabric at walmart. Hannah was looking for Batman fabric but when we saw the ponies and they were all snoozy we couldn’t resist. I think if I make another one for Annie I will make it a little longer. You can adjust the size according to your dog and your measurements. It is a really easy to make! You can whip up a few in an afternoon. It’s like a snuggly for your pets. Together we can make pet wearing a new fad! But seriously, give it a try sometime for your furry friend. It is great for small pets you want to take out with you when it’s a little chilly and they can be all snuggly and spoiled like they should be, right! I’ll be back soon with more fall projects. Until then…

Happy Crafting!

DIY Vintage Tea Towel Throw Pillow

05-IMG_0963 07-IMG_0957 08-IMG_0956 06-IMG_0960Hi guys! As many of you know, vintage linens are like my favorite thing on the planet! I purchased the most adorable tea towel from one of my favorite shops, NeatoKeen a while back. The moment I saw this little towel, I knew I had to have it! The kitty looks like a cross between my two angel kitties, Roux and Sophie. I have been saving it for something special. Recently I had the opportunity to review a pillow form from and immediately knew the little towel I had would be amazing throw pillows for my couch!

Here’s What You Need:

*Vintage Tea Towel

*Scrap Fabric

*Backing Fabric

*Trim (optional)


Sewing Machine


*Zipper Foot


*Pillow Form (Mine is a 14×14 from Here)


23-DSC_4708First you need to measure your tea towel. You will need to decide where you want to cut your towel and if you will need to patch it in with some extra fabric. My tea towel was wide enough for a fourteen inch pillow form but it was not tall enough since I wanted to make two pillows, so I needed to add fabric to the top and bottom to make it square. I needed an extra inch and a half added to the top and bottom. So I made my extra pieces 2″ tall by 15″. My towel piece was 12″ tall by 15″ wide. Then I cut a back piece to be 15×15″.

22-DSC_4709Begin by sewing the top patch to the top of the towel with right sides together. Press seam to the top. Stitch the bottom patch to the bottom of the towel, right sides together. Press seam allowance towards the bottom. Now you should have a front pillow piece that is 15×15″.

10-DSC_4896Stitch the trim around the front of your pillow around the edges.

11-DSC_4897 12-DSC_4900Now you are ready to sew your zipper. Put the front and back pillow pieces together right sides facing. Baste stitch across the bottom of the pillow. Press the seam open.

13-DSC_4901Lay the zipper centered in the middle of the seam you pressed open. Pin the zipper with the top of the zipper about an inch and a half in from the side then pin it down from there making sure it is centered in that seam all the way.

14-DSC_4902 15-DSC_4904 16-DSC_4905Put your zipper foot on your machine. Stitch a regular straight seam down one side and then across at about 1.5″ from the side seam then back up the other side, moving the zipper pull as needed with the needle down in the fabric. Now rip open the basted seam exposing the zipper.

17-DSC_4906 19-DSC_4908 18-DSC_4907 20-DSC_4909 21-DSC_4910Now fold to make the back and front pieces even with right sides together. Pin all the way around. Start stitching 1.5″ in from the side where your zipper tape starts, then pivot and stitch up the side, then across the top, then back down the other side and then across the bottom 1.5″ in to the other side of the zipper. Clip corners and threads. Open up the zipper and pull the pillow right side out through the bottom. Insert your pillow form.

01-IMG_0974 04-IMG_0964 03-IMG_0966 02-IMG_0967I LOVE my pillow! It looks fantastic in my living room and every time I see it I am reminded of my little Roux! Pillow Cubes is a company out of Tennessee that offers all kinds of pillow forms in traditional sizes and custom sizes. You can buy singles or in wholesale quantities. They also carry a variety of types of pillow forms in fiber fill and feather blends. I chose a fourteen inch square woven covered fiber fill pillow. I was impressed by the quality of my pillow form. And I really love that they are made here in the US! I would definitely recommend giving Pillow Cubes a try next time you are looking for some pillow inserts. My friends at Pillow Cubes have given me a coupon code to share with my readers. Use code CraftyLife10 at checkout to receive 10% of your order! I hope you have enjoyed my pillow tutorial! Next time you see that awesome vintage tea towel, snatch it up and make a pillow for your favorite space. Vintage linens make the best throw pillow! These pillows would make a great gift too! I’ll be back soon with more DIY fun. Until then…

Happy Crafting!

Vintage Crafts- DIY Souvenir Tray


vintage souvenir trayHi everyone! Today I am back with another vintage craft to share with you guys! Today I am going to share how to make a souvenir tray from a Summer 1953 issue of McCalls Needlework and Craft Magazine. This craft idea was in the “Just for Fun” article and suggested glueing letters and postcards or mementos to trays for a great way to display your treasured papers.

Here is the Original:

5-just for fun 6-just for fun22-DSC_4675Instead of vegetable glue and shellac I used Mod Podge Matte decoupage medium. I used vintage post cards from my stash of vintage paper ephemera, and the red tray I picked up at Walmart this summer. I wrapped the wooden handles with some aqua and white bakers twine.

4-IMG_1009 1-DSC_4677 3-IMG_1014I absolutely adore my tray! It is a retro fun display piece. I think it would look great on a coffee table but also would be great as a serving tray for entertaining! I used vintage post cards for my tray, but I think it would be a great way to save your summer paper mementos to remember summer vacations or maybe even family letters and photos. You can really get creative with it and make it your own. I’ll be back soon with more vintage fun. Until then…

Happy Crafting!

DIY Upcycled Tiered Pull On Skirt From a Vintage Bedsheet

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Hi guys! Today I am going to share how to make an easy tiered skirt without a pattern. I made my skirt from a vintage bed sheet. One of my favorite things in the whole world are vintage bed sheets. The prints are so fun! This project is great for beginners and only takes a few hours to make. I’ll tell you how to change it up some to customize it to the look you want too!

Here’s What You Need:

*Vintage Bed sheet or 2-3 yards of fabric

*Ruler and Marking Pen


*Sewing Machine and Thread

*1/2″ elastic

*Safety Pin


10-DSC_4508 The first thing you need to do is determine the measurements so you can cut your fabric. Measure your waist. Take that measurement and double it, then add an inch for seam allowance. So if your waist is 24″ then your first tier will be 49″ (24×2=48+1=49). Decide where your first tier will hit from your waist area. I wanted mine to hit at 7″ down from my waist. For the top tier you will make a self casing so you will need to add that to the height. For my half inch casing I will add a half inch for hem and ease, then an inch for the casing. So if I want my first tier to be 7″ finished my finished height will be 9″ (7+1+.5=8.5 +seam allowance .5=9.) So my first tier will be cut 49″x7″. I was able to get this in one piece from the width of my sheet. If your fabric is not wide enough, divide the measurement and cut two. Decide how long you want your second tier. I made mine at 10″ finished, so 11″ with seam allowance. For the second tier you will double the first width measurement. So take your width from the first tier and double it, (49×2=98″) You can cut two 49″x11″ pieces. For the third tier you will decide your length again. I chose 6″, so 8″ with seam allowance and hem. You will want to double the second tier width, (98×2=196″). So my third tier was 196″x8. I cut four pieces at 49×8. See a pattern here? You basically start with one width, then double it, then double the second.

11-DSC_4509Now to start you need to sew together your tier pieces. If you have two first tier pieces stitch them together at the side seams. Sew together the tier two pieces together at the side seams and the third tiers together at the side seams. You should now have three rings of fabric.

12-DSC_4913 13-DSC_4914 14-DSC_4915Next you need to gather your tiers. On the largest loop, the bottom tier, stitch a basting stitch about a quarter inch from the top, then another right above it. Stitch your basting stitches, stopping and starting again at each seam. Pull the two strings from one side to gather your fabric. Play and fanagle your gathers until you have gathered the fabric enough to fit to the bottom of the second tier.

15-DSC_4916 16-DSC_4917Now sew the bottom tier to the bottom of the second tier with right sides together. Baste gathering stitches in the top of both second tier pieces and gather until they will fit the bottom of the top tier. Pin. Stitch the top of the second tier to the bottom of the first tier right sides together.

17-DSC_4918I had a little helper for this part…

18-DSC_4919Now you are ready to make your casing. Turn under the top edge about a quarter of an inch and press. Then turn under again around 3/4″ and press again. Stitch all the way around close to the open edge, leaving a couple inches open for your elastic.

19-DSC_4920 20-DSC_4921 21-DSC_4922Pin one end of your elastic to the fabric right next to the casing. On the other end, fasten a safety pin and close it. Insert the safety pin side of elastic into the casing. Scootch it through the casing al the way until it comes out the other end. Try the skirt on and pull the elastic to where it fits snugly at your waist. Pin. Stitch the elastic together. Trim. Stitch the casing closed.

09-DSC_4924 22-DSC_4923To finish off your skirt hem the bottom tier by turning under twice and stitching all the way around close to the open edge.

This skirt is easily customizable. You can play around with the number of tiers, adding or subtracting. You use the basic formula of doubling the previous measurement every time you add a tier. You can also play around with the fullness. The skirt I made was double the fullness from my natural waist. If you want a skirt that is less full add less material for fullness, like 1.5 times the width instead of two. Or you can make it even more full. Play around with it and have fun!

07-DSC_5099 02-DSC_5121 I LOVE how my skirt turned out! It is fluffy and full and twirly, so fun! You can really customize this skirt by the fabrics you choose and the length and fullness of your tiers. I hope you all will give this skirt a try for your next sewing project! It doesn’t take too much fabric and is easy to sew! My skirt cost me under five dollars to make! I know I will be making more and playing around with this style. I’ll be back soon with more fun DIY tutorials. Until then…

Happy Crafting!

Cathrineholm Inspired Perler Bead Coasters

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One of the best things in this whole world is vintage dishes! The old patterns are just fantastic! Of all the mid century dish ware lines, Cathrineholm’s enamel ware is definitely one of my absolute favorites! The lines and colors of the lotus dishware is to die for. I recently had an impulse buy of a huge tub of perler beads. I had bought them for my sister and I to use for a craft night when she was home for summer. Well, they never were cracked open, so I decided to play around with them and see if I could whip up some coasters. I was inspired to make my coasters with a retro design, and I couldn’t think of anything more fun than Cathrineholm’s Lotus pattern.

Here’s What You Need:

*Perler Beads

*Square Bead Form

*Perler Bead Ironing Paper


*Pick up and scoop tool(optional)


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The basic way to make your perler bead coasters is as follows. Grab a bunch of beads in the colors that you are using and gather them into a bowl or lid. Follow the patterns as I have listed below. Place each bead on a peg following the pattern. Once you have your whole pattern set, you are ready to iron. Place a sheet of ironing paper on top of the beads. Iron according to the directions. Flip the coaster over. Take the pegform off from the back side. Place the ironing paper on the back and then iron the backside.

Here is the pattern for the regular coasters, it reads from top to bottom. C=color W=white

Row 1-  20C beads

Row 2- 20C

Row 3- 4C, 10W, 6C

Row4- 3C, 13W, 4C

Row 5- 3C, 15W, 2C

Row 6- 20C

Row 7- 3C, 15W, 2C

Row 8- 3C, 13W, 4C

Row 9- 4C, 10W, 6C

Row 10- 20C

Row 11- 20C

Row 12- 4C, 10W, 6C

Row 13- 3C, 13W, 4C

Row 14- 3C, 15W, 2C

Row 15- 20C

Row 16- 3C, 15W, 2C

Row 17- 3C, 13W, 4C

Row 18- 4C, 10W, 6C

Row 19- 20C

Row 20- 20C

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I think they turned out pretty fun! I found my little venture into perler bead crafting pretty therapeutic. It is a great weeknight project to make while catching up on some Netflix. One thing I would suggest is getting the bags of the solid colors. It took me forever to dig out the colors I wanted out of my big bucket of multicolored beads. I really enjoyed playing around with my perler beads! I am sure I’ll be making more things with them soon. I hope I have inspired you to try your hand at making your own perler coasters! I think you’ll love it too! I’ll be back soon with more DIY fun. Until then…

Happy Crafting!

Easy DIY Doggie Bandana

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Hi guys! Anyone who knows me will tell you, I LOVE my dogs! Even though they are super precious, I do love to dress them up and make them even cuter. Beau has tons of sweaters which he does actually need in the winter because he gets so cold! In the summer time though, it is so hot and humid in our area, I don’t put him in tees because I am worried he might be a little too warm and uncomfortable. Sometimes I tie a bandana around his neck but it gets loose and falls off easily. So, I thought I would make a special bandana for him that would fit onto his collar. Check it out:

Here’s What You Need:

*Bandana or Fabric

*Sewing MAchine and Thread

*Marking Pen and Ruler




You can use any triangular piece of fabric you like. I used the corners of two bandanas I had on hand. Put the fabric up to your dog’s neck and determine about where you need to cut the fabric to make your triangular bandana. You will be folding the top over some so make sure you have plenty of room for folding.


Once your triangle is cut you need to cut the sides. Measure the width of the back of your dog’s neck. Add an inch for folding under. Mark the half point of your bandana at the long cut end. Measure over from the half way mark half of the measurement of your dog’s neck on either side. Draw in a line perpendicular and cut off the sides on each end.


Fold under by a quarter inch on each side. Press. Turn under a quarter inch again. Stitch the sides closed.

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Measure the width of your collar. For example if your collar is 1″ wide, you want your opening to be 1.25″ wide. Fold the top raw edge under by a quarter inch. Then fold the edge under again this time by the width of the collar plus a half inch (1/4″ for ease and 1/4″ for seam allowance. So if my collar is 1″ I would place my first folded edge so that it is 1.5″ from the top fold. Stitch across your folded edge with a quarter inch seam allowance making a casing. To finish off, slide your collar into the casing of the bandana.

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I love how my little dog bandanas turned out! The pups look super adorable in them and they stay put around their sweet little necks. I made a few for Beau and my moms pup Sadie out of a couple of dollar bandanas I got at Walmart a while ago. You can make a few out of one bandana. I haven’t made any for my little Annie yet since she is still using a harness as she’s a wild woman on the leash. I am sure she will have a bunch of her own soon enough. I hope you all will give this a try for your favorite four-legged friend. I’ll be back next week with more diy fun. Until then…

Happy Crafting!

Easy DIY Hoop Paintings

06-DSC_4829 07-DSC_4825 04-DSC_4868 03-DSC_4870The first time I saw one of those large wooden quilting hoops at the fabric store, I fell in love. I bought a few of them, and then they sat in my closet for a while. I was waiting for a large piece of fabric that I liked or something special to put in them. I recently rearranged my office and needed some new wall art for in there. I love inspirational quote paintings, but I am not much of an artist, especially with lettering. However I thought I would give it a try. Instead of getting those blank canvas packs from the craft store, I decided to use what I had on hand, a drop cloth and my large hoops.

Here’s What You Need:

*Large Wooden Quilting/ Embroidery Hoops

*Canvas Drop Cloth

*Paint ( I used latex wall paint because I have a ton of it, acrylics would be great too)



*Fabric Glue and/or hot glue



First you need to cut your drop cloth. Lay your hoop on your cloth and cut around the hoop about three to four inches from the hoop all the way around. Iron your cloth if you need to.


Take the inside piece out of the hoop. Lay the hoop back on your fabric and trace the inside of the hoop.

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Paint your back ground and let it dry completely

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Draw in your saying or wording with a pencil. Paint over your lettering. Let dry. Add any other paint embellishing you wish to. Paint your outer hoop. I painted mine white and then added stripes of color when the white dried.

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Once your fabric and hoops are dry you can assemble. Lay the cloth over the inside hoop. You can add a little fabric glue to the outside of the inner hoop for extra hold if you like. Position the fabric so it is centered and everything looks good. Place the outer hoop over the cloth and inner hoop. Press and stretch the fabric, pressing the hoop all the way over the inner hoop. It is difficult to get it taut right away. You will have to finagle and pull the fabric from the back side and keep working it until it is tightly bound tightening the outer hoops screw as you go.


Once your cloth is bound, you need to trim the back. Trim the fabric to about an inch or a little over an inch from the edge of the hoop.


Now take your hot glue and run glue around the inside back of the hoop. Press the excess fabric onto the glue on the inner wall of the hoop. Do this all the way around to finish off your hoop.

05-DSC_4838 02-DSC_4874 01-DSC_4876Even though my lettering skills are lacking, I think my painting turned out pretty cute. I free-handed everything, but I think for a neater look stencils would be perfect. These hoops took me most of a saturday afternoon. The painting is the long part. And of course the waiting for the paint to dry. What I love the most about this project is that the hoops are awesome little frames and since you are the artist, you can put your own personal style and color scheme to work. It’s a unique piece of art for your blank spaces. Give it a try sometime! I think you’ll love it too. I’ll be back soon with more crafty projects. Until then…

Happy Crafting!

Vintage Tablecloth Summer Shorts

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Hi guys! As many of you already know, I love to upcycle shabby vintage tablecloths. I was in need of some new shorts this summer. I bought some jeans from the thrift store to cut off, but I also wanted some casual drawstring shorts too, so I decided to make some. I used a basic pattern and added my own pockets, which is really easy. Today I am going to show you how I made up my shorts including the drafted pockets.

Here’s What You Need:

*Shorts Pattern (I used New Look 6271)

*Vintage Tablecloth or other medium weight fabric

*Lining fabric for your pockets


*Marking Pen

*Large sheet of drawing paper or a piece of poster board


*Sewing Machine and Coordinating Thread



To draft the pocket like on the green shorts start with a large piece of paper or poster board. Lay your pattern piece on top and mark where the top of the pattern is, where the hemline will be, the center front and if there is a casing, the bottom of the casing.


Now mark where your pocket will start and stop. I decided I wanted my pocket about 5″ in from the side seam on the front . I market the bottom of the pocket opening 4″ down from the casing and the bottom of the pocket  to be 4″ up from the hem.


Draw the curve in from the 5″ line on the casing line to the 4″ down line on the side seam edge.  Measure over 1.5″ at the top from the first curve line. Draw the long curve of the pocket from your 1.5″ mark down to the bottom of the pocket 4″ up from the hem. You should now have a pocket shape. Now draw in 1/2″ out on each side of the pocket for seam allowance. This is your pocket pattern.

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 Cut two of the main fabric and two of your lining fabric.


Sew one main pocket piece to one lining piece right sides together. Stitch starting at the side seam, then all the way around, ending at the side seam. Leave the side seam edge open.


Clip your corners and turn your pocket piece right side out. Iron. Top stitch the curve of the top of the pocket. Repeat with the other pocket.


Place your pocket on the top of the front of your shorts between where the casing will end and 4″ up from your hem. Pin the pocket in place.


Stitch across the top of the pocket at the top and then down around the outer edge of the pocket ending at the pocket opening at the side seam. Sew your side seams of your front short piece to your back shorts piece. Finish the casing like in the instructions for the pattern.

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For my red and blue shorts I extended my pattern piece to have a self casing instead of a separate one.  I then decided how far down I wanted my pockets to be and made a mark on the fabric. Mark the top of the pattern on your paper then mark where you have your pocket starting. Decide how long you want your pocket opening. Measure your hand  across and add some wiggle room. Make a mark this distance down from the top of your pocket. Draw a line from the top of the pocket straight out 2-3 inches, then form a wide oval curve and back up towards the bottom pocket opening mark. Draw a small straight line across the bottom pocket edge connecting it to the curve. This is your pattern. Cut four lining fabric pieces.


Stitch one of your pocket pieces to one side of your front shorts piece where you marked the fabric earlier. If you haven’t already marked on your fabric where your pockets will line up go ahead and do so. Stitch the pocket to the shorts piece at the side seam. Stitch the other side of the pocket to the back pattern piece at the side seam. Do the same thing with the other side of the shorts.

I seem to have lost my last two photos of these shorts. Oops, hopefully this next step will make sense. You need to pin your shorts front to your shorts back at the side seams with the pockets facing out. You are going to stitch your side seam as follows… Start at the top of the shorts at the side and stitch down toward the pocket. Stitch a half an inch down when you get to the pocket, then pivot the fabric and stitch around the pocket. Pivot again when you get back to the side seam. Stitch straight across a half inch in towards the center, then pivot again and continue stitching all the way down to the bottom hem. Do the same thing with the other side of your shorts. When your side seams are sewn you should have an opening in each side seam that is your pocket. You will have to turn your pocket to the inside of your shorts. Finish off your shorts per the pattern instructions.

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I love how my shorts turned out! I have really been enjoying wearing them! I am always picking up tablecloths with stains or holes and recently had picked up a few at the flea market that had some faint stains and a few little holes. These are the best kind for larger projects. I hope the next time you come across a tablecloth that has been gently loved you snag it up and make some shorts for yourself. I think you’ll love them too! It’s a great project for beginners too. I’ll be back soon with more crafty fun. Until then…

Happy Crafting!

Vintage Crafts- Using a Retro Pattern to Make a Dress From a Vintage Tablecloth

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Hi guys! I know in my vintage posts I usually share a diy from a magazine. Well, today I am going to do something a little different and share a little easy how to on how to make a dress from a vintage tablecloth with a retro sewing pattern.

B5748I used a large rectangular embroidered vintage tablecloth and the Retro Butterick pattern 5748. There are so many awesome vintage reproduction sewing patterns on the market today! I love them because they always have plus sizes, so I don’t have to redraft an entire pattern, I can just cut and go. 

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I used a large vintage embroidered tablecloth. I cut the bodice front and back from the top edge. I tried to place the pattern where the embroidery design would be the same and the pieces would fit pretty seamlessly across the bodice. I cut the bodice linings out of plain white broadcloth I had on hand. I did not use the skirt pattern pieces. Instead I measured from my waist to where I wanted the hem to lay. Then I added 1/2″ to the measurement for seam allowance to sew the skirt to the bodice. To cut the skirt I measured up from the bottom side of the tablecloth up the previous measurement all the way across and mark. Cut across where marked forming a long skinny rectangle you will use for your skirt. Stitch the bodice up according to the directions. When you get to the skirt, stitch up the ends to where the zipper will go. You will now have a loop. Stitch a basting stitch across the top of the front and then across the back to the side seam areas. Then stitch another basting stitch right below the first. Gather your skirt. Pin to the bodice and sew to the bodice. Remove basting. Add your side zipper at the side seam according to directions. Then stitch down the lining by hand around the zipper and skirt area.

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I love love love my little sundress! I have used this pattern a couple of times now and it is always a fun dress to wear. The last one I made with a linen bodice and a tablecloth skirt. It looks like a boutique dress, but I spent around ten dollars for the tablecloth and the pattern I snagged on sale. The best part is that you can whip one up in an afternoon. It is really easy! I hope I have inspired some of you to grab out some of those old linens that may not be in perfect shape anymore and try using them to make a dress of your own! I’ll be back soon with more vintage fun. Until then…

Happy Crafting!

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