My So Called Crafty Life

Tag Archives: Tutorials

Easy DIY Doggie Bandana

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Hi guys! Anyone who knows me will tell you, I LOVE my dogs! Even though they are super precious, I do love to dress them up and make them even cuter. Beau has tons of sweaters which he does actually need in the winter because he gets so cold! In the summer time though, it is so hot and humid in our area, I don’t put him in tees because I am worried he might be a little too warm and uncomfortable. Sometimes I tie a bandana around his neck but it gets loose and falls off easily. So, I thought I would make a special bandana for him that would fit onto his collar. Check it out:

Here’s What You Need:

*Bandana or Fabric

*Sewing MAchine and Thread

*Marking Pen and Ruler

*Collar

Instructions:

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You can use any triangular piece of fabric you like. I used the corners of two bandanas I had on hand. Put the fabric up to your dog’s neck and determine about where you need to cut the fabric to make your triangular bandana. You will be folding the top over some so make sure you have plenty of room for folding.

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Once your triangle is cut you need to cut the sides. Measure the width of the back of your dog’s neck. Add an inch for folding under. Mark the half point of your bandana at the long cut end. Measure over from the half way mark half of the measurement of your dog’s neck on either side. Draw in a line perpendicular and cut off the sides on each end.

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Fold under by a quarter inch on each side. Press. Turn under a quarter inch again. Stitch the sides closed.

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Measure the width of your collar. For example if your collar is 1″ wide, you want your opening to be 1.25″ wide. Fold the top raw edge under by a quarter inch. Then fold the edge under again this time by the width of the collar plus a half inch (1/4″ for ease and 1/4″ for seam allowance. So if my collar is 1″ I would place my first folded edge so that it is 1.5″ from the top fold. Stitch across your folded edge with a quarter inch seam allowance making a casing. To finish off, slide your collar into the casing of the bandana.

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I love how my little dog bandanas turned out! The pups look super adorable in them and they stay put around their sweet little necks. I made a few for Beau and my moms pup Sadie out of a couple of dollar bandanas I got at Walmart a while ago. You can make a few out of one bandana. I haven’t made any for my little Annie yet since she is still using a harness as she’s a wild woman on the leash. I am sure she will have a bunch of her own soon enough. I hope you all will give this a try for your favorite four-legged friend. I’ll be back next week with more diy fun. Until then…

Happy Crafting!

Easy DIY Hoop Paintings

06-DSC_4829 07-DSC_4825 04-DSC_4868 03-DSC_4870The first time I saw one of those large wooden quilting hoops at the fabric store, I fell in love. I bought a few of them, and then they sat in my closet for a while. I was waiting for a large piece of fabric that I liked or something special to put in them. I recently rearranged my office and needed some new wall art for in there. I love inspirational quote paintings, but I am not much of an artist, especially with lettering. However I thought I would give it a try. Instead of getting those blank canvas packs from the craft store, I decided to use what I had on hand, a drop cloth and my large hoops.

Here’s What You Need:

*Large Wooden Quilting/ Embroidery Hoops

*Canvas Drop Cloth

*Paint ( I used latex wall paint because I have a ton of it, acrylics would be great too)

*Scissors

*Pencil

*Fabric Glue and/or hot glue

Instructions:

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First you need to cut your drop cloth. Lay your hoop on your cloth and cut around the hoop about three to four inches from the hoop all the way around. Iron your cloth if you need to.

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Take the inside piece out of the hoop. Lay the hoop back on your fabric and trace the inside of the hoop.

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Paint your back ground and let it dry completely

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Draw in your saying or wording with a pencil. Paint over your lettering. Let dry. Add any other paint embellishing you wish to. Paint your outer hoop. I painted mine white and then added stripes of color when the white dried.

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Once your fabric and hoops are dry you can assemble. Lay the cloth over the inside hoop. You can add a little fabric glue to the outside of the inner hoop for extra hold if you like. Position the fabric so it is centered and everything looks good. Place the outer hoop over the cloth and inner hoop. Press and stretch the fabric, pressing the hoop all the way over the inner hoop. It is difficult to get it taut right away. You will have to finagle and pull the fabric from the back side and keep working it until it is tightly bound tightening the outer hoops screw as you go.

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Once your cloth is bound, you need to trim the back. Trim the fabric to about an inch or a little over an inch from the edge of the hoop.

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Now take your hot glue and run glue around the inside back of the hoop. Press the excess fabric onto the glue on the inner wall of the hoop. Do this all the way around to finish off your hoop.

05-DSC_4838 02-DSC_4874 01-DSC_4876Even though my lettering skills are lacking, I think my painting turned out pretty cute. I free-handed everything, but I think for a neater look stencils would be perfect. These hoops took me most of a saturday afternoon. The painting is the long part. And of course the waiting for the paint to dry. What I love the most about this project is that the hoops are awesome little frames and since you are the artist, you can put your own personal style and color scheme to work. It’s a unique piece of art for your blank spaces. Give it a try sometime! I think you’ll love it too. I’ll be back soon with more crafty projects. Until then…

Happy Crafting!

Vintage Tablecloth Summer Shorts

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Hi guys! As many of you already know, I love to upcycle shabby vintage tablecloths. I was in need of some new shorts this summer. I bought some jeans from the thrift store to cut off, but I also wanted some casual drawstring shorts too, so I decided to make some. I used a basic pattern and added my own pockets, which is really easy. Today I am going to show you how I made up my shorts including the drafted pockets.

Here’s What You Need:

*Shorts Pattern (I used New Look 6271)

*Vintage Tablecloth or other medium weight fabric

*Lining fabric for your pockets

*Ruler

*Marking Pen

*Large sheet of drawing paper or a piece of poster board

*Scissors

*Sewing Machine and Coordinating Thread

Instructions:

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To draft the pocket like on the green shorts start with a large piece of paper or poster board. Lay your pattern piece on top and mark where the top of the pattern is, where the hemline will be, the center front and if there is a casing, the bottom of the casing.

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Now mark where your pocket will start and stop. I decided I wanted my pocket about 5″ in from the side seam on the front . I market the bottom of the pocket opening 4″ down from the casing and the bottom of the pocket  to be 4″ up from the hem.

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Draw the curve in from the 5″ line on the casing line to the 4″ down line on the side seam edge.  Measure over 1.5″ at the top from the first curve line. Draw the long curve of the pocket from your 1.5″ mark down to the bottom of the pocket 4″ up from the hem. You should now have a pocket shape. Now draw in 1/2″ out on each side of the pocket for seam allowance. This is your pocket pattern.

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 Cut two of the main fabric and two of your lining fabric.

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Sew one main pocket piece to one lining piece right sides together. Stitch starting at the side seam, then all the way around, ending at the side seam. Leave the side seam edge open.

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Clip your corners and turn your pocket piece right side out. Iron. Top stitch the curve of the top of the pocket. Repeat with the other pocket.

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Place your pocket on the top of the front of your shorts between where the casing will end and 4″ up from your hem. Pin the pocket in place.

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Stitch across the top of the pocket at the top and then down around the outer edge of the pocket ending at the pocket opening at the side seam. Sew your side seams of your front short piece to your back shorts piece. Finish the casing like in the instructions for the pattern.

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For my red and blue shorts I extended my pattern piece to have a self casing instead of a separate one.  I then decided how far down I wanted my pockets to be and made a mark on the fabric. Mark the top of the pattern on your paper then mark where you have your pocket starting. Decide how long you want your pocket opening. Measure your hand  across and add some wiggle room. Make a mark this distance down from the top of your pocket. Draw a line from the top of the pocket straight out 2-3 inches, then form a wide oval curve and back up towards the bottom pocket opening mark. Draw a small straight line across the bottom pocket edge connecting it to the curve. This is your pattern. Cut four lining fabric pieces.

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Stitch one of your pocket pieces to one side of your front shorts piece where you marked the fabric earlier. If you haven’t already marked on your fabric where your pockets will line up go ahead and do so. Stitch the pocket to the shorts piece at the side seam. Stitch the other side of the pocket to the back pattern piece at the side seam. Do the same thing with the other side of the shorts.

I seem to have lost my last two photos of these shorts. Oops, hopefully this next step will make sense. You need to pin your shorts front to your shorts back at the side seams with the pockets facing out. You are going to stitch your side seam as follows… Start at the top of the shorts at the side and stitch down toward the pocket. Stitch a half an inch down when you get to the pocket, then pivot the fabric and stitch around the pocket. Pivot again when you get back to the side seam. Stitch straight across a half inch in towards the center, then pivot again and continue stitching all the way down to the bottom hem. Do the same thing with the other side of your shorts. When your side seams are sewn you should have an opening in each side seam that is your pocket. You will have to turn your pocket to the inside of your shorts. Finish off your shorts per the pattern instructions.

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I love how my shorts turned out! I have really been enjoying wearing them! I am always picking up tablecloths with stains or holes and recently had picked up a few at the flea market that had some faint stains and a few little holes. These are the best kind for larger projects. I hope the next time you come across a tablecloth that has been gently loved you snag it up and make some shorts for yourself. I think you’ll love them too! It’s a great project for beginners too. I’ll be back soon with more crafty fun. Until then…

Happy Crafting!

Vintage Crafts- Using a Retro Pattern to Make a Dress From a Vintage Tablecloth

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Hi guys! I know in my vintage posts I usually share a diy from a magazine. Well, today I am going to do something a little different and share a little easy how to on how to make a dress from a vintage tablecloth with a retro sewing pattern.

B5748I used a large rectangular embroidered vintage tablecloth and the Retro Butterick pattern 5748. There are so many awesome vintage reproduction sewing patterns on the market today! I love them because they always have plus sizes, so I don’t have to redraft an entire pattern, I can just cut and go. 

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I used a large vintage embroidered tablecloth. I cut the bodice front and back from the top edge. I tried to place the pattern where the embroidery design would be the same and the pieces would fit pretty seamlessly across the bodice. I cut the bodice linings out of plain white broadcloth I had on hand. I did not use the skirt pattern pieces. Instead I measured from my waist to where I wanted the hem to lay. Then I added 1/2″ to the measurement for seam allowance to sew the skirt to the bodice. To cut the skirt I measured up from the bottom side of the tablecloth up the previous measurement all the way across and mark. Cut across where marked forming a long skinny rectangle you will use for your skirt. Stitch the bodice up according to the directions. When you get to the skirt, stitch up the ends to where the zipper will go. You will now have a loop. Stitch a basting stitch across the top of the front and then across the back to the side seam areas. Then stitch another basting stitch right below the first. Gather your skirt. Pin to the bodice and sew to the bodice. Remove basting. Add your side zipper at the side seam according to directions. Then stitch down the lining by hand around the zipper and skirt area.

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I love love love my little sundress! I have used this pattern a couple of times now and it is always a fun dress to wear. The last one I made with a linen bodice and a tablecloth skirt. It looks like a boutique dress, but I spent around ten dollars for the tablecloth and the pattern I snagged on sale. The best part is that you can whip one up in an afternoon. It is really easy! I hope I have inspired some of you to grab out some of those old linens that may not be in perfect shape anymore and try using them to make a dress of your own! I’ll be back soon with more vintage fun. Until then…

Happy Crafting!

DIY Vintage Beach Cover Up

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Hey guys! I have been sewing a lot lately, mostly for myself. I’ve been using a combination of vintage and new patterns and drafting some elements myself. A few weeks ago I came across this fantastic vintage pattern on Pinterest and followed the link to flickr. I found some adorable polka dot terry cloth at JoAnns and knew I had to make this vintage cover up for the lake and pool this summer!

Here’s What You Need:

*Terrycloth Fabric- I used 3.5 yards

*Craft Paper

*Pencil, Ruler Scissors

*Sewing Machine and Thread

*Bias Tape- 1-2 packs

*Velcro- Sew on

*Buttons

Find the link to the original source for the pattern on Flickr Here

Here is how I changed mine up and added the hoodie:

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To draft my hoodie I foded a sweatshirt so the hood was flat. Then I traced the hood onto my fabric with a marking pen and then added a half inch at the bottom for seam allowance. Cut two pieces.

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Stitch fom the top of the hoodie to the bottom leaving the neck area and front area where the face goes unstitched.

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Now sandwich the front edge between bias tape and pin. Then top stitch the bias tape close to the edge. Set your hood piece aside.

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Craft paper is great for drafting a pattern like the one from this vintage piece. I am a big gal so I added in a couple inches in length and about an inch or two overall to each of the pieces. I cut one back piece on the fold. I did not do the pockets on mine. Follow the steps omitting step four. You will be adding your hoodie before you make the self facing. Stitch the front to the back, add in the sleeves and stitch up the sleeve and sides. I did not leave a space open for a drawstring in my side seams. Hem your sleeves. Stitch bias tape to the bottom of your cover up finishing off the raw edge. You should now have a jacket pretty much formed.

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Starting at the center backs with right sides together, pin the hoodie to the neck. Remember you want your hoodie to stop half way between your shoulder seam and the end of the front facing area so you have room to turn the facing under. My hoodie was a little too long so I had to trim it a little so it fit right. Make adjustments if you need to. Stitch the hoodie to the body of your cover up at the neck. Now is a good time to finish off the neck seam where the raw edges are.

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Now you can form the facing. Finish off the raw edges either by turning under or serging. Turn under the raw edge on the top. Then fold the facing back towards the wrong side of the jacket to the shoulder seam and pin in place. Top stitch close to the edge.

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Pin under the facing down the front of each side. Pin and then tack the facing in place. Try the jacket on and decide where you would like the buttons to go. Mark where the buttons would stop and start.  Use this line for your velcro. Stitch the velcro, one on the back side of one facing and one on the front side of the other facing. Use your marks as a guide to stitch the velcro then double check the opposite side to make sure the hook and loop parts are even on your facings. To finish off your jacket sew on your buttons onto each spot you put your velcro. I had three buttons and three velcro closures.

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I absolutely adore my cover up! It is swingy and fun! Even though the weather is hot, I usually get pretty chilly once I get out of the lake when it is later in the afternoon. This cover up is perfect for keeping out the chill and helping dry you off. This did take a considerable amount of a saturday to make, but I feel like it was worth it. I hope you all will give it a try sometime too, either a copy of the original or my hooded version. Also, a huge thank you to Barb for sharing this wonderful diy pattern on her flickr account! I had a blast making mine! I’ll be back soon with more crafty fun. Until then…

Happy Crafting!

DIY Custom Chair Seat Covers with A Vintage Tablecloth

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Last week I shared how I updated my diner style kitchen table by covering it with oilcloth fabric. We have had the table and chair set for years and it is one of my favorite pieces of furniture as it was the first real piece of furniture we bought as a couple. Just as the dining table was looking a bit worse for wear, the chairs that went with it were not in great condition anymore either. There are lots of little scratches and puncture holes from the kitties. Instead of upholstering them I decided to make some simple slip covers to jazz them up a little.

Here’s What You Need:

*Vintage Tablecloth or Upholstery Weight Fabric

*Accent Fabric (canvas, linen, denim, twill, etc)

*Ribbon

*Sewing Machine and Thread

*Poster Board

*Marking Pen

*Scissors

Instructions:

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First you want to draft your pattern. Place a piece of poster board on your chair cushion or top. Get a friend to hold it in place while you trace the seat from underneath with a pencil.

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For the top of my seat I made a rectangle the width plus about an inch extra for ease by the length. Then I held up the rectangle piece to my chair back and traced the curve at the top.

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Once you trace and draft your patterns make sure to add seam allowance. Add 1/2″ seam allowance all the way around the seat pattern. Add 1/2″ around the sides and top of the back pattern and then add an inch and a quarter for hemming the bottom. You will also want to cut a skirt for the seat skirt. Measure from the top of the cushion down and decide how long you want your skirt. I made mine 5″ tall. You will need two parts to your skirt. One piece will go around the front and sides of the seat, the other will be a flap for the back of the seat. So, measure your perimeter of your cushion pattern piece from one side to the other starting at the back right corner and going around to the back left corner. So if my parameter minus the back was 68″, I would make my front skirt pattern to be 5″ tall plus an inch for hemming, so 6″ tall by 68″ wide plus an inch for hemming the sides(69×6.) Then cut a back piece to be the same height by the width of the back plus an inch for hemming (18×6.)

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Cut out your pattern pieces. You will need one seat cover piece for each chair. You will need two back of chair pattern pieces for each chair, and you will need one skirt piece and one back skirt piece for each chair.

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If you want to add trim to your chair back cover, now is the time. Baste your trim to the front side of one piece all around the edge with a quarter inch seam allowance. Make sure if you are using a directional trim, like ball frings, you point the bottom of the trim towards the inside.

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Pin the back and front of the chair back cover pieces together right sides together. Stitch around the sides and top with a half inch seam allowance. Leave the bottom open. Turn under the raw edge by about a quarter inch and press. Then turn under again by about a little over a half inch. Stitch close to the edge to hem. Now your chair back is done. You can add trim to the bottom now too if you like.

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Turn under and hem the sides of both the skirt pieces. You will want the sides to be hemmed in by about a half an inch. Then turn under and hem the bottoms of both the main skirt and back flap skirt. All of your edges except the top should be finished off and hemmed now.

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Pin the seat cover to the main skirt right sides together starting about a half an inch from both side corners of the back end.Stitch together with a half inch seam allowance.

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Now pin the back piece to the back of the seat cover right sides together.

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Stitch the back to the back of the seat cover. To finish mine off I stitched ribbon on each side of the back skirt in the middle so I could tie my seat covers to the chairs around the chrome legs. You can add ribbon if you like like I did or you can leave it open. You can also add trim to the bottom of the skirt. I will probably add some ball trim to mine sometime soon.

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I just adore my whole dining table set now that I gave it a little DIY love! I used a vintage tablecloth for my main fabric pieces that had some wonderful farm life designs on it in red and aqua. You can use any kind of upholstery weight fabric like twill or canvas or even linen or denim. The great thing about these covers is that once you make your pattern, you can easily whip a set of these covers up in an afternoon. You can make a set for every season or occasion you like. I am sure I’ll be making a Christmas set soon. So if you have some shabby dining chairs, give them a face lift with some cute chair covers! It can change the look of your whole space! I hope you will give it a try, it’s super simple and fun! I’ll be back soon with more DIY fun. Until then…

Happy Crafting!

Easy Five Minute Vintage Tray Lazy Susan

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Back in April my mammas and I took a trip out to Liberty for the Spring Antique Festival. I picked up a lot of goodies that day, but one of my favorites was this wonderful metal rooster serving tray. I knew it would be fabulous in my kitchen! I couldn’t decide where to put it. I had originally thought of hanging it on the wall, but it didn’t fit anywhere I wanted it to go. My mom suggested that it would make a cool lazy susan for the table. She can come up with the best ideas!

Here’s What You Need:

*Vintage Metal Tray

*Lazy Susan ( Mine was a wood one we had from IKEA)

*Glue ( I used E6000)

Instructions:

Paint your lazy susan to be the color of the bottom of the tray. Then add a generous amount of glue to the top of the lazy susan. Turn the tray over so it is face down. Place the lazy susan face down onto the back side of the tray, making sure it is centered, glue it down to the tray. Let the glue dry, then it is ready to use.

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Isn’t it adorable! I love it! It is so cute on my gingham tabletop too! I love to display my little hen salt and pepper shaker set on it, and I am looking for a cute napkin holder to add to it too. So, if you have an old vintage tray you love but just don’t know what to do with it but keep it in your cupboard, turn it into a great display piece and make it into a lazy susan! I’ll be back soon with more crafty fun. Until then…

Happy Crafting!

DIY Oilcloth Covered Diner Style Table

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Hi guys! My hubby and I bought a reproduction chrome diner style table and chair set from a furniture store in Los Angeles a long while ago when I was in college out there. It was our first dining table, and we still use it to this day. It has seen some wear and tear over the years and the top has gotten a bit shabby. We looked at getting a new table, but I am so attached to this one, I decided to cover the top. It turned out even better than I had hoped for, and it was so easy to cover!

Here’s What You Need:

*Diner Style Table mine was 52″ round

*Oilcloth ( I used two yards)

*Screw driver

*Awl

*Staple Gun and Staples

Instructions:

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This table is pretty easy to cover. The first thing you need to do is take the tabletop off. It should be screwed on from the bottom of the tabletop.

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Remove the screws and set aside.

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Lay your oilcloth out on the floor face down. Next, lay the tabletop face down onto the oilcloth. Center the tabletop on the fabric.

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Trim the fabric to about 3-4″ excess from the tables edge.

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Start by folding one edge of your oilcloth up to the backside of your table. Stretch it tight and staple it down near the edge of the fabric. Continue pulling the fabric to the back side and stapling it down until you have stapled all the way around your table. I went back around and stapled my fabric again close to the edge of the table for extra security.

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Now, find the holes for the screws on the back of the tabletop by running your fingers over the fabric near the edge. When you find a hole, punch a hole in the oilcloth with your awl. Next, lay your table base upside down onto your table top. Screw the base to the top with the screws you set aside before.

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Once it is all screwed back together flip it right side up and enjoy your new tabletop.

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I LOVE how my table turned out! The red gingham looks fabulous in my kitchen! I don’t know how long it will hold up, but I can always recover it. So far it has been covered a month and still looks great! You could easily cover any table with oil cloth with the same method, you just staple it to the underside. So, if you have a shabby old diner style table, before you toss it up on craigslist, try covering it with some awesome oilcloth. It’s a great way to update your table and your kitchen decor! I’ll be back soon with another fun DIY. Until then…

Happy Crafting!

Vintage Crafts- Button Cards

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Hi guys! I am back with another fun vintage craft to share with you. Today’s craft comes from a Summer 1953 issue of McCall’s Needlework and Crafts Magazine. I am going to share with you the instructions on how to make these cute little vintage button greeting cards/ stationary cards.

Here is the original how to:

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These cards were super easy to make! I made the cherries like in the magazine. For the flower card, I drew a flower shape on the back side of some pink felt and then added the button to the center. I also made some grapes, and an ice cream cone. I cut the shanks off of the buttons with a pair of flush nippers.

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You can really get creative on the shapes and subjects you use, and it is a lot of fun! It is a really fast craft to whip up too! I think it would be an excellent project for kids to make or for a group or party. I hope you all will give it a try sometime! I’ll be back soon with more vintage crafts. Until then…

Happy Crafting!

DIY Vintage Hanky Doggie Tee Dress and Meet Annabelle Jane

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A few weeks ago my mom and I drove down to Georgia to pick up an italian greyhound puppy for my sister. We met the gal a few hours outside of Atlanta, and when she arrived she had the littermates with Hannah’s little fella. I picked up one of the girls and flipped her over on her back and she just laid there are let me rub her belly and fell asleep. I melted and long story short, even though I was not supposed to be adding any more animals to our household, she ended up coming home with me. She quickly stole my hubby’s heart, just as fast as she did mine. Beaureguard took a little while to warm up to her, but they are now very good buddies! We named her Annabelle Jane, and mostly call her Annie. She is both a snuggle bug and a wild little lady when she wants to play. My favorite thing about her is that she prances like a show horse wherever she goes. It’s something I hope she doesn’t grow out of because it’s so cute! I have always had boy dogs and cats, so I have a bunch of tees and sweaters in different sizes, but I did not have any cute dresses for little Annie, so I decided to make a few with some plain little puppy tees I had for my boys.

Here’s What You Need:

*Dog Tee

*Hankerchief or Bandana, Scarf, Etc….

*Trim

*Buttons, patches, etc…

*Scissors

*Sewing Machine and Thread

*Straight Pins

Instructions:

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Start by cutting your hanky in half.

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Fold over the raw edge by about a quarter inch then fold it over again encasing the raw edge, then iron.

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Stitch the folded edge down close to the edge. Then put your stitch length on your basting stitch and stitch a basting stitch across the top about an eighth or so from the edge.

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Gather your hanky skirt.

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Pin your hanky skirt to the bottom of your tee.

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For the polka dot I pinned the skirt to the right side or outside of the bottom of the tee. I matched the center of the skirt to the center front of the tee and then pinned around to the sides. You wil leave the bottom where the tummy will be open, so you end your skirt at the sides.

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For the aqua floral I pinned the skirt to the inside of the tee. I matched the center of the skirt to the center front of the tee and then pinned around to the sides. It will be open on the bottom.

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Stitch your skirts to your tees. Then add trim to the bottom of the tees. I stitched a line of ricrac to the hem of the tee on the aqua floral and stitched a row of periwinkle flower trim to the gathers at the top of the skirt on the polka dot.

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You can finish off your tee by sewing on some buttons or a little patch of your hanky.

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I absolutely LOVE these little dresses on her. The hankies I used were around 9″ square, and were perfect halved and stitched to an xs tee. You basically want something twice the width as the front hem of the tee. The best thing about these little dresses are that they are so easy to make, and super cute! I love to use the vintage hankies I have on hand, but a bandana or scarf would be adorable as well. So, if you’ve got a sweet little four-legged princess at home, grab her some tees and make her a new wardrobe. She might not thank you for it, but I know you’ll love it as much as I do! I’ll be back soon with more DIY projects. Until then…

Happy Crafting!

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