Easter is this weekend and I wanted to make a fun centerpiece for the table for our Easter dinner. I have been inspired by the adorable egg vases I have seen floating around on Pinterest like this one, this one, this one, and this one. I thought I would try my hand at making my own egg vases. This was a super easy and fast DIY, and I think it is going to be perfect for our Easter table!
Here’s What You Need:
*Fake Dyeable Easter Eggs (I bought mine at Walmart)
*Dye (I used Procion Dyes that I had from fabric dying)
*Mini Spray Bottles
*Belt Sander or Dremel fitted with a sanding disk
The first thing you need to do is sand holes into your eggs. Set up your dremmel or your sander. Run the tip of the egg over the sander or sanding disk and grind down the tip of the egg until you have a hole in the top the size you like.
Next, you are ready to dye your eggs. You can use a dye kit, or you can spray on dyes like I did. Open up your mini spray bottle and add a tiny bit of dye into it. You only need a pinch. Fill the bottle with warm water and screw the lid back on. Shake it up.
Put on your gloves. Grab an egg and spay the egg all over with the dye you mixed up. Make sure you spray your eggs over a sink or tub, and rinse the dye out of the sink as you go. Once your egg is saturated with dye, set it aside to dry using the little paper rings that come with the egg kit. Repeat with your other eggs.
While your eggs dry, you can paint the egg carton if you like. Once the eggs are dry, load them into the egg carton and add your flowers, filling each egg with a little water.
Isn’t it cute! I just adore spring! Don’t you! I love how versatile this project is as well. You can totallychange up the look just by the dye and flowers you use. There are a lot of sweet egg vases and planters on pinterest to inspire you. Definitely give this DIY a try! You’ll love it! I’ll be back next week with another fun project. Until then…
Easter is going to be here before we know it! For all of you ladies that want an accessory a little more subdued than a fancy Easter bonnet, give this easy floral headband a try! This faux floral headband is really fast to whip up, and it is easy as pie!
Here’s What You Need:
*Skinny Metal Headbands
*Wire Floral Picks (I bought mine at Michael’s)
This diy is so simple! The first thing you need to do is separate the floral pieces in your floral pick. You can usually just pull branches off of the main stem. Once you have your floral pieces separated you are ready to add them to your headband. Take one of your wire floral pieces. You can trim the tail off to about an inch or so below where the floral piece starts. Take the end of the wire on the floral piece and wrap it around your headband. Wrap the floral piece around the headband a couple of times until it is wrapped all the way around and lies on the top side of the headband. Take a second piece of floral pick and wrap it around your headband just above where your first pick is wrapped. Continue on wrapping your floral wires around until you have as much as you like on your headband. I used one full floral pick on my headband, and I shifted the bunch to more of the side of the headband. If you wrap your wires well around your headband, you should not need to glue it in place, but you can add a few drops of glue to the ends if you like.
I love this little floral headband! It really adds a little spring sweetness to an outfit. You can wear it with your Easter dress, or jeans and your favorite soft tee. I love the simplicity of it, and how customizable it is! You can change the look simply by using different floral picks. I hope you guys will give this one a try! You’ll want one in every color! I will be back next week with another fun spring DIY. Until then…
I am so excited that spring is here and the weather is starting to warm up a bit! My spiraea has started blooming, and it won’t be long before everything else starts to grow. I recently snagged a set of little plastic vintage party favors, or nut cups as they are usually called. I wasn’t sure what I was going to do with them at first, I just knew I had to have them! Once I got them, I thought they would make the cutest mini spring garden containers to brighten up my home for spring. These mossy little gardens are a cinch to whip up, and they are oh so sweet sitting on a shelf or a little table!
Here’s What You Need:
*Vintage Party Cups/ Nut Cups
*Little Paper Flowers
The first thing you need to do is gather all your supplies. Choose floral stems that have small elements like tiny flowers or stamens, little butterflies, etc. I chose to use reindeer moss. It is green and very spongy. I like the texture of this moss, and I feel like it holds my picks well without having to glue anything.
To start a mini garden, grab one of your little baskets. Grab a small handful of your moss. Stuff the moss into the basket. Pack it down and smoosh it well. You want it to be nice and compacted.
Next, grab your wire cutters, and clip off some small elements of your floral picks. Cut a few at different lengths. Make sure you have at least a half an inch or so at the bottom of your stem. Push the pick into the moss where you want it. It should fit snugly into the moss. Add as many picks as you like.
Now, you can carefully place your vintage minis and paper flowers onto your garden. If you want to make them permanent, you can glue them into place. I like to reuse them, so I don’t usually glue them down unless I have to.
To finish your garden off, add your basket’s handle to the basket where the holes are. Now they are ready to display.
I LOVE these little vintage faux gardens! They add a nice pop of spring color to my living room shelves. I think it would be really cute to add a little name tag flag to the garden and use it as a place marker for a spring table setting too. These little baskets are really fun and fast to create! I made four of mine in less than twenty minutes. I also used one of the baskets as a planter for a tiny succulent I had. You can find these little vintage nut cups on sites like Ebay or Etsy. I hope some of you guys will give this DIY a try. You’ll have a blast! I’ll be back next week with another fun project. Until then…
Most of us gals have at least one trench coat in the closet. I have a few of them myself. A couple of years ago, I bought this traditional khaki trench at Target on sale. I’ve worn it a lot, and somewhere along the way I lost the belt, and a few buttons. It was starting to look a bit shabby, so I thought I’d give it a face lift. With some vintage buttons and a little patchwork detailing, it’s easy to breathe new life into an old shabby jacket!
Here’s What You Need:
*Vintage Buttons the same size as your original buttons
*Vintage Feed Sack Scraps or other fabric scraps
*1/2 yard of fabric for the back side
*Self Healing Mat
*Sewing Machine and Coordinating Thread
*Hand Sewing Needles and Thread
*Iron and Ironing Board
The first thing you need to do is cut your fabric pieces. Measure the length of the belt loops that are on your jacket, so you know how wide to make your belt. Mine was 2″ long, so the width of my belt needed to be 3″ wide to account for my 1/2″ seam allowance on each side. So, I cut my squares for the belt at 3×3″. Measure the arm band loops. Mine were 1.5″ so I cut my arm band squares to be 2.5×2.5″. Measure your waist and take that measurement by 1.5 or two and that will be the length of your belt. Measure the circumference of the sleeve opening on your jacket and that will be the length plus an inch for seam allowance for the arm bands. Divide the square measurements into the length and that is how many squares you need.Cut the backing fabric and the interfacing to be the width of the belt and the length of 1.5-2 times your waist measurement. Do the same for the arm bands.
Stitch the first square to the second square at the side seams. Then stitch the third square to the second square at the side seams, and so on, until you have all your squares sewn together in a long patchwork strip. Do this for the belt, and for the arm bands.
Iron open all of your seam allowances and iron the interfacing onto the backside of the patchwork strips.Lay the front patchwork strip and the backing fabric right sides together and pin if you like.
Start stitching down one side with a half-inch seam allowance, then pivot across the bottom in a diagonal and then stitch back up the other side. Turn the belt right side out. You can use a spoon or chopstick to push the right side of the fabric back through from the wrong side to the right side. Iron your belt flat. Fold under the seam allowance for the open side and press. Then top stitch a quarter-inch from the edge all the way around the belt.
Do the same thing with the arm bands, sewing the patchwork strips to the backing fabric. You can stitch your ends to be square on these. Stitch around the right side, across the bottom, and then back up the left side. Turn right side out. Press flat and turn under the seam allowance in the open end. Topstitch all the way around.
Next, you need to add your buttons to the coat. First, remove all the old buttons. Mark the spots where the old buttons were if you need to. Stitch the buttons on your coat with a hand sewing needle and thread. I use embroidery floss for my buttons. I used a mix of buttons on my coat. You can use any kind or combination of buttons you like best. Slip the arm bands through the loops on the sleeves. Take one end of the arm band and overlap it over the other end by a little bit. Stitch a button onto the middle of the overlapping ends to secure them. Repeat with the other arm band. Slide your belt through the belt loops and you are ready to wear!
I LOVE the update to my old trench! I am a total sucker for vintage fabrics, especially feedsacks, so the patchwork detailing is right up my alley! It’s great how just changing up a few details can really give an old coat a unique new look. I hope some of you will give this one a try with some of your old coats, you’ll have a blast! The design possibilities are practically endless! I’ll be back next week with another fun project. Until then…
Two weeks ago this past Saturday we lost our favorite rooster Mabock. He was a beautiful black silkie rooster, and the sweetest we have ever had! Somehow the side door of the coop was not properly closed and the girls were able to get out and free range in the yard when no one was home. We came back and found that Auntie Mame had been attacked by an animal we think was a coyote, and Mabock was missing. We found the little guy a little bit down from the road the next day. Judging by the feathers and tracks in the yard, we think he saw Mame being attacked and came to her defense. He saved her life, but was attacked himself and died. My dad buried him near the coop so he can always watch over his girls, and delivered a sweet little eulogy. He was our favorite bird that we’ve ever had, and he will be missed by all of us! You never really think you can get so attached to a chicken, but they wiggle their way into your hearts! I was able to recover some of Mabock’s feathers from around the yard and decided to clean them and make a dream catcher. I used to make these when I was little the traditional way. I recently saw a dream catcher made from a doily and embroidery hoop on Pinterest Here and Here, and I thought I’d like to try one of my own. You can find tutorials all over the internet for making your own dream catcher. Here is how I made mine:
Here’s What You Need:
*Embroidery Hoop to Fit your Doily
*Yarn, Ribbon, Trims
*Fabric Scraps (Various Lengths, smallest being at least 10″ long)
*Double Stick Tape
The first thing you need to do is cover your outer hoop piece in your yarn or ribbon. Tie your end of yarn to the hoop where it begins at the top. Wrap the yarn around the hoop. Keep wrapping all the way around the hoop until you get to the other end where the wood stops. Tie the end off and snip off excess.
Cut various lengths of fabric strips, ribbon, and trims. I believe my longest piece was about 26″ long and my smallest piece was around 10″ long. Take a piece of trim or fabric and loop it through the bottom of the hoop and match the ends of the piece together so they are even. Now, hold the fabric close to the bottom where the hoop is and loop the fabric ends through making a knot up against the hoop. So you will have a knot at the bottom side of the hoop and two tails of fabric coming down from your knotted strip.
Continue adding fabric strips and trim pieces until you have a nice amount on the bottom of your hoop.
Cut a long piece of leather lacing to tie in the middle of the strips and two medium lengths and two small lengths as well. Tie a couple of feathers to the ends of your leather lacing with embroidery floss. Wrap the floss around the feather top several times to cover the ends. Tie off the thread, knot well, and trim excess thread. Add the leather strips with the feathers to the bottom section of the hoop with all the fringe. Place them where you like. I made my long one in the center, the medium ones midway through on each side, and the shortest near the ends.
Next, run some double stick tape around the outside rim of the inside hoop. Stretch and smoosh the doily over the hoop securing the edges on the tape. The tape will help hold the doily on the hoop so you can sandwich it inside the outer hoop. If your doily is larger than your hoop, you don’t need to worry about taping it. Once your doily is secure, place the outer hoop over the inner hoop and fit together, adjusting the screw at the top as necessary. Once your hoop is put together you can finish it off by stringing some ribbon to the top for hanging.
I LOVE my funky little hoop! It looks really cute in my craft room. Every time I see it I will think of my favorite fluffy little man. So not only is it cute, it’s also special! You can totally customize this little hoop to your liking and really make it your own. I hope some of you guys will give this one a try, you’ll have so much fun! It’s a great project for the kiddos too! I’ll be back next week with another fun DIY. Until then…
Pallets are one of my favorite items to repurpose! The wood has a cool rustic look, and you can usually find them for free. I have been wanting to try to embroider some wood for a while now. My hubby scored some pallets from work the other day, and I knew exactly what to do with them. This DIY is fun and simple. As with anything that is embroidered, it takes a little time, but it’s fun work.
Here’s What You Need:
*Piece of Wood from a Pallet
*Wording you like printed out to size
*Drill or Drill Press and a 1/8″ drill bit
*Large Yarn Needle
*Sawtooth hanger hardware and ruler
*Circular saw or handsaw
The first thing you need to do is print out your wording. Find a font you like and resize it until the height and width of the font are to fit your board. My pallet piece was a little over three and a half inches tall so I made sure my font was a little smaller than three inches. Once you have your print out, tape the paper down to the pallet wood board making sure your wording is centered.
Take your punch awl and punch holes into the wood through the paper every half an inch(a little less on curves), all around your wording. Punch every letter until you have the whole thing punched.
Remove the paper from the wood. Fit your drill or drill press with an eighth inch drill bit.
Next, carefully drill through your wood where each punch is marking the letters. Be careful. If you are having a hard time seeing the punch marks, you can mark them with a marker to help you see them better. Drill through every punch mark on every letter until you get to the end. Once all the holes are drilled, clean off the wood so there isn’t any dust that will dirty your yarn.
Cut a long piece of yarn and thread one end through the needle. Double knot the end of the yarn. Now bring the needle up through the bottom of the wood through the first hole in the first letter.
Embroider the letter using a back stitch. Stitch all the wording. Knot the yarn at the end when you have finished stitching close to the wood. Snip excess threads. If you’d like to hang your pallet art, you will need to attach a sawtooth hanger to the center top on the back of the wood.
I LOVE my little embroidered pallet wood sign! It is cute and rustic and looks great in my kitchen! Embroidering on wood is a blast! This one was a test for me. I am wanting to make a larger one soon to hang in the living room, and will definitely share when I make it. I hope some of you will give this one a try, you’ll have so much fun! I’ll be back next week with another fun and easy DIY. Until then…
Today I am going to share how to make a custom wood box with a slide lid with you. This is something I have wanted to make for a while now, but I couldn’t decide what I wanted to put inside to store. A few weeks ago, I bought a set of mini greeting cards from Printstagram, and I instantly knew that they were the perfect item to make the little wooden box for. This project, although not totally advanced, does require some major power tools. So, it has the potential to be quite dangerous when working with items like a table saw. If you don’t know what you are doing, or are not very careful, you can easily lose a finger. This is why I had a LOT of help from my hubby on this project, since he is an experienced craftsman. There are probably other ways to make one of these boxes, since everyone has a prefered method of woodworking. This is how we made our box…
Here’s What You Need:
*3/8″ Birch Plywood
*1/8″ Birch Plywood
*Ruler and Pencil
*Table Saw & Push Block
*Drill Press or Drill with a 3/4″ forstner bit
*Pin Nailer &23 gage pins
*Dremmel Tool and a Carving bit
*Image Transfer or Decorative Paper to decoupage top of box
*Clear Lacquer Spray to seal the image on the lid
The first thing you need to do is measure your items that are going to go in your box. My cards are 4×4, but my envelopes are a little less than 4.5×6″, and the stack of everything compressed is around 2-2.5″. I want my box to be a little larger to fit everything nicely. So, I want the inside bottom to be 5.25×6.75 which is the padded measurement of the envelope plus the width of the wood for each side because the sides are going to sit on top of the bottom. The sides will be the length of the bottom and a height of over 2 inches, so sides are 6.75×2.5″. The front and back pieces will be a bit different since the front will be shorter for the top to slide into the grooves you will cut. The back will be the width of the bottom and the same height as the sides, so 4.5×2.5″. Cut the front a quarter-inch shorter in height, so it would be 4.5×2.25″
Measure and mark your wood. Set up your table saw to cut your lengthwise strips. Cut your length pieces first. We cut the 6.75 strip first. And then a 4.5″ strip.
Then cut your cross cuts. So out of the 6.75 piece, cut one at a 5.25 for the bottom, and then two pieces at 2.5 for the sides. Then cut the 4.5 strip for the front and back pieces at 2.5″ for the back and 2.25 for the front.
To make the groove for the wood to sit in you need to cut a dado 1/8″ in from the top of the side and back pieces. Set your table saw to 1/8″ from the blade. Now, using extreme caution since you can lose a finger, carefully push the side piece through the blade of the saw from the front until you see the blade breaching the back end, but don’t let it go all the way through. Stop it short. Do the same thing with the other side making sure the groove is being cut on the correct side of the wood. For the back you can cut your dado all the way through from one side to the other since it will be sandwiched in between the sides and therefore the sides of the wood won’t be seen.
Take your front piece and mark the halfway point on the top front. Load your drill or drill press with a 3/4″ forstner bit, and drill halfway onto the top edge making a half moon notch in the top of the wood.
Next, load a small carving bit onto your dremmel. Take your side pieces and carve out the rest of the dado in the side piece, stopping just a tiny bit short of the back ends. You should now be able to fit the side and back pieces together and see a continuous groove all around the sides and the back.
Now, run a small amount of glue down the bottom of one of the side pieces. Smooth out the glue so it is a thin layer. Glue it to the bottom piece. Now shoot a few pin nails through the bottom into the side you just glued. Glue and nail the other side. Then run some glue onto the bottom and sides of the back piece. Sandwich it in between the sides in the back. Nail it in place from the bottom and add a few nails in the sides. Then glue and nail in the front piece.
To make the top of the box, measure the inside dimensions of the top inside of the groove plus a tiny bit of wiggle room. My top needed to be 4.75×6.5″
Measure and cut your top piece from the 1/8″ plywood using your table saw.
Fit the top into the box. If it is a bit tight you can shave it down by sanding the edges.
You will need to sand the entire box lightly with some 220 grit sandpaper to smooth off any rough spots.
*You can leave your box natural or you can add an image to the top like I did. The top of my box was a little of a craft fail. I originally tried to use a lazertran transfer and burn the image into the wood with the real turpentine method. This did not work for me at all. I’m entirely positive if my turpentine is the real deal, especially since I followed the directions on the transfer paper to a t. What I ended up using was another transfer that I let dry and then glued it on with a layer of decoupage medium. I then sealed it with a clear lacquer spray. I was not very happy with this one either. You can’t see it in the photos, but the transfer bubbled a bit when I sprayed the lacquer on it. I am planning on making another top sometime and just decoupaging a thin paper image on the top since I think that will have a better turn out. *
I LOVE my stationary box! I LOVE my Printstagram mini cards too! This box is a great piece for a coffee table or a side table. You can make one to fit your photos, craft supplies, beauty projects, anything you like. If this is a little more work than you’d like to take on, sometimes you can find an old cigar box with a slide top and decorate the top. I will be back next week with a fun and easy bunting to share with you guys. Until then…
Hey everyone! The other day Daryl and I reinforced the chicken coup with extra chicken wire. We ended up having a few scrap pieces left over and I thought I would save them for a project. I have used chicken wire on organizers before, but I thought it would be fun to use some in an accent with a matted frame. This project is really easy and super fast to whip up!
Here’s What You Need:
*8×10 Frame ( I bought mine at Target)
*Chipboard (Like a cereal or cracker box)
*Double Stick Tape
*Regular Acid Free Tape
*Ruler and Pencil
*Box Cutter or X-Acto Knife
*Photo or art print (the photo I used was a 4×5)
The first thing you need to do is measure and cut your chipboard. Cut the outside dimensions to an 8×10 size. Cut the inside opening to a 5×7 size. Mark out the 5×7 to be centered in the middle. Cut out the shape with your knife.
Next cut your burlap to be about an inch larger than your mat. Center your chipboard mat onto your piece of burlap. Run your double stick tape along the right and left sides at the outside edge. Fold the excess burlap to the back and tape down. Next, fold over the top and bottom and tape down to the backside.
Now, cut an “x” in the mat opening with the knife. Then cut the flaps down to about a half inch from the chipboard. Apply double stick tape to the burlap and fold back and tape down to the backside of the mat opening. Now you should have a burlap covered mat.
Next, cut a piece of chicken wire with your snippers to be a little smaller than 8×10″. Flatten the wire out the best you can and tape the chicken wire down to the back side of your mat.
Lay your photo face down on the table and then lay your mat face down over the photo. Center the mat over the photo so it is centered in the mat opening. Tape the photo to the chicken wire in the middle. To finish off, add white paper to the backside, slide your matted picture in the frame and close up the back.
I love this frame! It is a great way to display one of my favorite photos of my Hannah Banana. This project was super easy! It took me all of fifteen minutes or so to make, and it was fun! I love using fun mats in my frames! IT is one of the easiest home decor diys that can really make an impact in a space! I used burlap, but it would be fun to use a cute fabric or paper to cover your mat with as well. I hope some of you guys will give this one a try! You’ll have a blast! I’ll be back next week with another fun project! Until then…
My sister Hannah’s birthday was this past weekend. She is a hard gal to shop for, mostly because she is always saving up and buying big-ticket items, which makes it a little hard to get a store-bought gift for her that I feel she’ll get excited about. Hannah was lucky enough to get brains from dad, and the artsy fartsy gene from mom, so she’s smart and talented. One of Hannah’s main loves is music, and biggest spending weakness is musical instruments, specifically guitars. She is nineteen years old and has already acquired six guitars, two violins, and a ukulele. I always make Hannah gifts since she truly loves and appreciates handmade one of a kind items. This year I wanted to make her a guitar strap for her new guitar. She loved the camera strap I made for my mom for Christmas, so I knew she’d love a vintage flour sack patchwork strap. I had a great time picking out the fabric scraps and making it fit her style!
Here’s What You Need:
*Sewing Machine and Coordinating Thread
*Self Healing Mat
*Iron and Ironing Board
The first thing you need to do is measure your strap and decide how many fabric pieces you need. Adjust the strap to its longest position and measure the width and the length. Mine was 2″ wide and 46″ long. I decided to make my strips 2.5×3″ and so I divided the 46″ length by 3″ which gave me 15.333, so I cut 16 pieces.
Lay out your self-healing mat and grab a fabric scrap. Mark it at 3″ and cut the strip to 3″, then turn it and cut the width to 2.5 inches. Repeat until you have 16 strips. Lay out your fabric pieces and decide which order you want them to be in. Stack them in order from the top to the end.
Set up your sewing machine. Take the top two fabric pieces and lay them right sides together where the top of the second piece lines up with the bottom of the first piece. You want your directional patterns to be going all in the same direction in your patchwork strip. Stitch across the bottom with a quarter-inch seam allowance.
Now take the third fabric piece and lay it on top of the second where the top of the third piece lines up with the bottom of the second piece and the right sides of both pieces are facing. Stitch across the bottom.
Continue stitching the fabric pieces together until you have sewn all 16 pieces and have a long row of patchwork.
Lay your patchwork strip face down on your ironing board and heat up your iron. Press open all of the seam allowances. Next, starting at one end, fold over the side by a half an inch towards the center back of the fabric patchwork strip. Iron the raw edge under all the way down one side and then back up the other.
Next, lay your guitar strap face up and lay out your patchwork strip matching the top of the strap to the top of the strip. Lay the patchwork strip face up where the seam allowances you pressed under are nicely concealed to the face of the strap. Turn under the raw edges at the top and bottom. Pin the patchwork strip to the guitar strap.
Now you are ready to stitch the fabric strip to your guitar strap. Topstitch down one long side of the strap close to the edge of the fabric. When you get to the end, keep your needle down in the fabric, lift up your presser foot and pivot. Put the foot back down and stitch across the bottom. Then pivot again and stitch up the other side. Pivot and Stitch across the other end. Make sure you back-stitch at the beginning and end. Snip excess threads. Now you are ready to rock!
Isn’t it fun! I think I may have to make another one with some more masculine fabric for my hubby this year. This was a super easy project. You can make it in under an hour too! What I love so much is how customizable it is. I am a nut for repurposing and I LOVE to use vintage fabric, but you could use any kind of fabric scraps you have lurking in your scrap stash. Have fun with it! I hope some of you guys will give this DIY a go, you’ll love it! It makes a great gift for your favorite musically gifted gal! I’ll be back next week with more fun! Until then…
Hi guys! I hope you are all having a fabulous week! We are getting hit pretty hard with a winter storm here. So we are hunkering down and praying the power doesn’t go out. I thought I would share a last minute valentine with you all today. I picked up these little wooden hearts at JoAnns a few weeks ago to make Valentine pins with for my family. I loved the valentines I had in my round up last week with the mason jars and thought I would draw one for my little pins to fasten to. I think it turned out pretty cute…
Here’s What You Need:
*Small Wooden Hearts
*Martha Stewart Adhesive Stencils
*Paint Brush or Foam Pouncer
*Micron Pen (optional)
The first thing you need to do is paint the base layer of your hearts. Paint a few layers on the front and sides. Let dry completely.
Peel the stencil off of the backing and lay it on the heart where you like it. Smooth it down so it’s nice and stuck to the heart and paint can’t seep in.
Now grab a little paint on your paint brush and dab it all over the stencil area. Peel off the stencil and let the stenciled heart dry. Repeat with your other hearts.
Once your hearts are dry, lay them face down and glue the pin backs to the backside of your hearts. Let the glue dry completely.
Print out the printable and cut out the jars. Push the pin into the paper and back through. Close up the pin and you are ready to gift your valentines.
Aren’t they fun! I love any excuse to use my Martha Stewart stencils. I just adore them! These little pins are fun to make and really easy. You can totally customize them too with your colors and stencils that you use. If you are looking for even more design options, I saw these little heart pins at See Kate Sew this week. She leaves some of the wood exposed which is a really cool look too. I hope you guys enjoy the free printable! Have fun making your valentines! I’ll be back again next week with more fun DIY’s. Until then…
Hi! I'm Ashlee, and I love to create all kinds of lovely things! I spend my days creating and thrifting with my amazing hubby, three crazy cats, one very spoiled dog, and eight adorable chickens. Follow along with me for a heap of DIY projects, everything I just adore, and a healthy dose of vintage goodness.